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Real County Texas map

29.83° N · 99.81° W · County seat: Leakey · 700 sq mi · pop. 2,758

Real County is one of the emptiest counties in Central Texas: 2,758 people in 700 square miles, and its county seat, Leakey, has fewer than 350 residents. What it has instead is topography — the Frio River has cut a canyon well below the plateau rim, and the ranch roads that climb out of it are the best-known driving roads in Texas.

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Leakey sits in the Frio canyon on US-83 in the eastern half of the county. Camp Wood is 20 miles west on the Nueces River at SH-55; SH-41 crosses the high plateau in the north.

Population (2020)2,758
County seatLeakey
Area700 sq mi
Created1913, from Bandera, Edwards and Kerr
Named forJulius Real, rancher and state senator
RegionHill Country

Where Real County is

The county occupies the southern edge of the Edwards Plateau where it breaks into canyons, in the southwestern corner of the Hill Country. Only four counties border it: Kerr northeast, Bandera east, Uvalde south and Edwards west. Kerrville is 43 miles northeast, Del Rio 73 miles southwest, San Antonio 84 miles southeast and Fredericksburg 64 miles northeast.

Real County is one of the last counties Texas created — 1913, cut from parts of Bandera, Edwards and Kerr. It is named for Julius Real, a Kerr County rancher and state senator who pushed the bill through, and it is pronounced locally as two syllables, ree-AL. Population has barely moved in a century: the 2024 Census estimate, 2,772, is within a few dozen of the 2020 count.

The Frio canyon

The Frio River rises in the north of the county from springs on the plateau and runs south through a steep-walled valley past Leakey and Rio Frio before crossing into Uvalde County at Concan. The canyon floor is a narrow strip of pecan and cypress bottom; above it the walls climb to flat divides covered in cedar and live oak. Almost everything in the eastern half of the county — the town, the highway, the cabins, the church camps including the Alto Frio encampment southeast of Leakey — is squeezed into that strip. The river is clear, spring-fed and cold, and summer river tourism supports much of the local economy.

The county's western half belongs to the Nueces River, which runs south past Camp Wood in a second canyon. Between the two drainages the plateau is unbroken ranch country with almost no settlement.

The Twisted Sisters

Three ranch-to-market roads meeting near Leakey — RM 335, RM 336 and RM 337 — form a loop of about 100 miles that motorcyclists and drivers call the Twisted Sisters. RM 337 runs east from Leakey over the divides to Vanderpool and Medina and west to Camp Wood; RM 336 climbs north out of the canyon to SH-41; RM 335 comes back south from SH-41 toward Barksdale and Camp Wood. The appeal is elevation change and switchbacks, both rare in Texas, plus long stretches without a town, a shoulder or cell service. There are cattle guards, low-water crossings and free-ranging goats on these roads, and no fuel between Leakey and Camp Wood on most of the loop.

Lost Maples State Natural Area lies on the county's eastern boundary on the Sabinal River near Vanderpool, straddling the line with Bandera County. Its bigtooth maples are a relict stand from a cooler climate, and the park's autumn colour draws enough visitors that entry is by reservation in late October and November.

Towns and roads

PlaceTypePopulation (2020)
Camp WoodCity526
Leakey (county seat)City322

Camp Wood, on the Nueces, is larger than the county seat. Rio Frio, Vance, Barksdale's eastern fringe and Utopia's western approaches are unincorporated. Camp Wood takes its name from a Spanish mission site of the 1760s on the Nueces nearby.